EXPLAINED: The story behind Berlin’s historic Czech village

Tucked away in the bustling Berlin district of Neukölln lies a surprising relic of Czech history: Böhmisch-Rixdorf, or Bohemian Rixdorf. Once a small village founded by Czech Protestant refugees in the 18th century, it now forms part of a vibrant urban neighborhood—yet retains its distinctive character and cultural legacy.

This lesser-known corner of Berlin came into focus again last week when the mayors of Prague and Berlin met to mark 30 years of partnership between their cities. Their visit to the Comenius Garden, a quiet green space with Czech roots, underlined the long-standing historical and cultural ties that continue to shape Czech-German relations today.

Bohemian Rixdorf began as a haven. In 1737, groups of Czech-speaking Protestants—exiles fleeing the forced recatholization of the Habsburg-ruled Czech lands—were granted permission by Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm I to settle near Berlin.

They were members of the Moravian Church, heirs to the traditions of the Unity of the Brethren, a pre-Reformation Czech Protestant denomination. The settlers built their homes around a central courtyard and prayer house.

The narrow Malá ulička, or “small alley,” now known as Kirchgasse, became a central thoroughfare. The village retained its Czech identity for generations, centered on its church, school, and a close-knit community, even as the surrounding area grew into the metropolis of Berlin.

In this enclave, German and Czech languages coexisted. The legacy of those early settlers is still visible today in the street layout, architecture, and the enduring presence of institutions such as the Moravian Church congregation, whose modest modern prayer hall was built in 1962.

Kirchgasse remains the symbolic spine of the historic Czech village. At its center stands a statue of Friedrich Wilhelm I, commemorating his role in welcoming the Bohemian exiles. The street, along with the adjacent Jan-Hus-Weg, forms a quiet retreat lined with preserved buildings, many of which are officially listed as heritage sites.

Across from the statue lies the Museum im Böhmischen Dorf, dedicated to preserving the story of the Czech community in Berlin. The museum regularly hosts exhibitions and community events that reflect both the local history and its connections to broader Central European culture.

This area, known locally as the Böhmisches Dorf, or Bohemian Village, may not be widely recognized outside Berlin, but for historians and culturally curious visitors, it remains an important reminder of religious migration, identity, and resilience.

At the heart of this historic area lies the Comenius Garden, named after Czech philosopher and educator Jan Amos Komenský (Comenius), often referred to as the “Teacher of Nations.” The garden is more than a green space—it is a philosophical and educational symbol, shaped according to Comenius’s humanist ideals of harmony, learning, and reflection.

The idea for the garden emerged in the 1980s and came to fruition in 1995, when it was inaugurated in a ceremony attended by the last Czechoslovak parliament speaker, Alexander Dubček. A statue of Comenius, gifted by the former Czechoslovakia, still watches over the garden’s paths.

Now, a newly established foundation, supported by the Berlin City Hall and with participation from Czech experts, will safeguard the garden’s future. With secure funding of EUR 100,000 (about CZK 2.5 million) annually, the foundation aims to preserve the area, expand its educational offerings, and potentially draw support from EU programs.

As Prague Mayor Bohuslav Svoboda noted during his recent visit, the garden serves as a “special symbol of friendship” between Berlin and Prague.

As Prague and Berlin celebrate three decades of city partnership, the history of Bohemian Rixdorf offers more than just cultural nostalgia. It reflects a long-term, lived connection between two capitals—forged through migration, memory, and mutual influence.

Though the original Czech-speaking community has largely dispersed, Czech life in Berlin continues to evolve. A new generation of Czechs has made the German capital their home—students, artists, professionals, and entrepreneurs who contribute to the cultural fabric of the city in new ways.

One such example is Anna Marte, founder of Nonna, billed as Berlin’s only Czech café, located on the grounds of an old cemetery. Blending Czech comfort food with Berlin’s open-minded spirit, Marte has created a unique space where memories of home meet contemporary urban life.

“Everyone here can be who they want to be, and no one judges,” she said in a recent interview with Deník N, describing what drew her to Berlin and what keeps her there.

Meanwhile, a new Czech-language book project, Češi v Berlíně (Czechs in Berlin), aims to collect and share the stories of modern Czech Berliners. Spearheaded by journalist Jana Kománková, the book will document life between cultures—a mirror, perhaps, of the experience of those original Rixdorf settlers. The book plans to release later this year.